The legendary Black Bread Café, progenitor to the boutique restaurant movement in Jim Thorpe, is back in business after a three year hiatus. Nic and I received an email on Monday from owner Mark Pawlitschek inviting us to come taste his new menu, so of course, we were there by Thursday night.
First let me say, the interior is as charming as ever. Long ago, the restaurant connected adjacent Stone Row residences to create two small dining rooms with the feel of an historical Pennsylvania country inn—candlelight, small cafe tables, soothing tans and browns punctuated by bright fall floral arrangements. Right away, you are in the mood for a good dinner.
The dining room manager, Jeff Harger, is a seasoned pro with a long history of restaurant experience. Thursday is an off night, and we got personal service from Jeff through the whole meal. Also, because they don’t yet have a liquor license, we were treated to a fine red house wine, Conch y Toro, compliments of the house.
The chef, Anthony Von Dracek, is a New Yorker. He knows the Pawlitschek family through their restaurants in Manhattan, and won’t have any trouble managing the kitchen at the Black Bread. He and Jeff treated us to a tasting menu that turned into a three hour private feast.
The Dinner
Starter: a blended soup of roasted squash and pear. I loved this soup. The slight nuttiness of the roasted pear was a back taste that lingered in my mouth long after the soup was gone. It is served with pumpernickel toast points, and could have been my whole dinner. Fortunately, my husband reminded me that more was coming, so I reluctantly didn’t eat the bread.
Pasta: Chef Anthony makes his own pasta, which juices me up I have to say. We were served pappardelle dressed with a crumbled Italian speck ham, pine nuts, and basil chiffonade with a hint of tomato—just enough to color the pasta. The dish was reminiscent of a carbonara deconstructed, with ham standing in for bacon. Since American bacon is overpowering, this was a pleasant surprise.
Intermezzo: Two cheeses and white Champagne grapes with a little pot of floral honey. This was delicious and irresistible (unfortunately since we still had our main course coming)
Main: I has swordfish crusted with sesame. My fish was moist and tasty, and plated with two sauces including a lime aioli that is a pleasant counterpoint to the fish. It is difficult to get good fish in this part of Pennsylvania, but Chef Anthony prevailed. It was a good choice for me after the soup and pasta, and very good.
Nic had a pork chop with apricot and an apricot glaze. He loved it, and ate every bite so I so I can’t review it since it was gone before I knew it.
Finish: We were too stuffed for the traditional salad, so we moved on to peaches in caramel and cream. We declined coffee, but soon the Black Bread will offer espresso made from one of those great Italian espresso machines. When they do, I won’t resist.
The Black Bread Cafe is open for dinner every evening but Tuesday, and for lunch on weekends. For information and reservations, call (570) 325-8957.
